Picking up where we left off, I ordered my first shirt from Mr. Hemrajani in April of '09. I ordered just one -- they'll let you do that on your first order. I ordered it using what I'll call their "best guess" method. I gave them a neck size, a sleeve length, and filled out a series of check boxes concerning body type. They will also let you send them a well-fitting shirt & copy it. Looking back with my 20/20 hindsight, this is the method I would recommend if you happen to own such a shirt.
Prior to that shirt's arrival, I got measured by one of their traveling salesmen, Ken Keswani, and brought with me two shirts that fit fairly well. We talked about the two shirts, how they fit, and what things I'd like to see done differently. Most of my complaints had to do with the fact that Brooks Brothers shirts, for example, are so balloon-like once you get up to my neck size.
Ultimately we decided upon an un-tapered shirt. The formula went like this: x + 8" (x being my nominal waist size). That's the number we used for all three measurements, chest, stomach & hips. Ken measured my neck and sleeve length, but I was not surprised by the results.
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| Raspberry Candy Stripe |
When you are heavy like I am, the length of the shirt is important so that it will stay tucked in. The addition of an eighth button (below the navel) is also a must.
I'll say this for the shirts I have gotten from Hemrajani, once we got the basic pattern down, they fit very well. Since that time, ordering shirts online has been a fairly painless process. It's just a matter of allocating the funds, picking the fabrics, choosing the details, and waiting for the shirts to clear customs. They are made in Hong Kong. Sometimes the wait can be a little painful. A wait time of eight or nine weeks is not unheard of. I have learned to instruct them in the comment box that "I NEED THESE SHIRTS IN 4 WEEKS." I usually get them in five.
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| Micro Check, Sky Blue |
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| Framed Bold Stripe, no pocket |
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| Pink Oxford Cloth (Color spot-on) |
I will also share the recipe I have used for replicating the Brooks Brothers Polo Buttondown collar:
- 3-3/8" Point Length
- 3/4" Tie Space
- 3-1/2" Spread
N.B.: request the mother of pearl buttons. I have not been charged extra for them, and I have learned they hold up much better at commercial laundries.
Summary
Pros:
- Nice price (basics can be had for less than $100/shirt)
- Excellent fit
- Tremendous selection of fabrics
- Easy-to-navigate web site
- Wish list is a great feature
- Long wait time
- Can't feel the fabrics
- Sometimes I am fooled by the scale of a check or a stripe
Posts
Excellent selections. We look to be about the same size with the same taste in shirts. Hamrajani has always scared me for the reasons you mention, but you have made them more appealing.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the mention. BTW I thought all architects wore black. I think I have the book around here somewhere.
You are so right about the color black. I couldn't believe how much of it I saw at architecture school. It's not a color or a look that favors me. If I have to go down that road, I'll wear a black or a navy polo. Thanks for commenting.
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